ACONCAGUA POLISH DIRECT
After approaching the mountain through its northeast side and setting base camp at Plaza de Mulas. We’ll then reach Confluencia Camp before summit day, where we’ll traverse to the route and climb the steep slopes of the glacier, using ice climbing and glacier traveling techniques in a challenging summit day.
We’ll be attempting the impressive Polish Glacier.
We start our trip at Mendoza, famous for its wines and culture before getting up to the mountains of Cordon del Plata . Here we start our acclimatization process and attempt a technical route on one of the 5k meter peaks in the area. Later we get to the winding path of the Ruta 7, which connects Argentina with Chile, making our first stop at Uspallata, where we prepare the loads for the mules.
From here we begin our trek that will take us to witness the impressive South Face and later to Plaza de Mulas, our base camp. After climbing Cerro Cuerno at 5400 meters we start moving up s though a couple of high camps until getting to Confluencia Camp, where we get ready for the climb.
On summit day, we start with a 2 hours traverse to reach the base of the glacier by sunrise. We climb short roped until reaching the Bottleneck where wedoa few pitches on 70 degrees ice slopes. On the top section we deal with a rock section before getting to the ridge which will take us to the summit.
An amazing climb, tough and technical, which requires great endurance and experience on climbing at high altitude
- Climb with a local IFMGA certified mountain guide, with no less than 15 expeditions of experience in the mountain and expert on this route.
- Attempt a real challenging technical route on a 1:1 climber to guide ratio.
- Take advantage of the best acclimatization program, visiting Cordon del Plata for technical test climbs and attempting of Cerro Cuerno before getting to the higher camps.
- Enjoy the best basecamp facilities, with free showers, free wi-fi, the most comfortable domes, great food and no crowds.
- Experience the personalized service that makes Andes Mountain Guides the best option in Aconcagua.
- Certified Mountain Guides (bilingual)
- 2 nights 5* Hotel accommodations in Mendoza and Penitentes. 2 nights Hosteria in Uspallata.
- 7 nights full board at Mulas. Free wifi and showers.
- Assistance obtaining the permits (permit fee not included)
- All meals while in the mountains
- Restaurant meals in Mendoza and Penitentes (as seen on the Itinerary)
- Camping and cooking gear for the group
- Base camp services: dining tent, WC, hyperbaric chamber, emergency oxygen
- Satellite phone service.
- Porters for group gear (tents, cookware, food, etc)
- Private ground transportation throughout the trip.
- 24/7 assistance in the US before and during the program.
- AMG Cap
- Real time online dispatches
- Plane tickets
- Park Fees
- Restaurant meals and those not listed in the itinerary
- Restaurant drinks
- Personal equipment (Aconcagua Normal Route Equipment List)
- Personal Insurance
- Personal expenses
- Sat Phone calls.
- Rescue costs and extra expenses caused by abandoning the expedition.
- LOCATION: Aconcagua Park, Mendoza, Argentina
- DEPARTURE DATES: On Request
- PRICE: $12500
- DIFICULTY: technical ascent at high altitude. Ice/snow
slopes up to 75 degrees. Summit day 10 to 15 hours.
- DURATION: 20 days
- CLIENT/GUIDE RATIO: 1:1
“Juan and I took the challenging Polish Glacier route December-January 2017, and looking back I wouldn’t want to climb it with anybody else. Juan is not only a phenomenal guide but also a great guy, and someone I consider to be a great friend now as well. Every quality you could want in a guide, Juan possessed; I always felt everything was under control at all times, and more importantly, I felt safe. As a bonus, Juan is great at cooking, eating will not be a problem no matter what the altitude!”
Sinclair Myrick, Palo Alto, CA
FLIGHT TO MENDOZA. You should arrange your flight in order to arrive in Santiago (Chile) in the morning and connect to Mendoza the same day. It is much easier to fly through Santiago then Buenos Aires, but BA is still a viable option.
MENDOZA (2,428 ft). We’ll be waiting for you at the airport and then we’ll drive to the Hotel. After an introductory meeting the guides will check all of your gear and we’ll be ready for a welcome dinner in one of the best restaurants in town.
VALLECITOS. We’ll get up early and obtain the mandatory permits and then drive to the village of Vallecitos (9,000ft) where we spend our first night at a mountain hut.
PIEDRA GRANDE. We set our camp up to 10, 800 ft . and go for an acclimatization hike. 4 to 5 hours B, L, D.
EL SALTO CARRY. We hike to high camp at 13,800 ft, setting a cache of supplies and gear before coming down to our camp at Piedra Grande. 4 to 6 hours B,LB, D.
EL SALTO. We move to high camp, where we´ll spend the next days. 3 to 4 hours
REST DAY. We’ll just relax and enjoy the surrounds. We might get to the base of our first climbing objective and review some progression techniques. 3 to 4 hours.
CERRO RINCON. Depending on conditions, we climb the “Reloj de Arena” or “SuperCouloir” route to the summit of Rincon. 8 to 12 hours roundtrip (17,500 ft.). B,LB, D.
USPALLATA. We descend to Vallecitos and then drive to our hotel in the town of Uspallata, where we recover and prepare the loads for the mules. 3 to 5 hours (6500 ft). B, L, D.
CONFLUENCIA . After Park registration we hike to our first camp at Confluencia (10, 500 ft). 3 hours. B, LB, D
PLAZA DE MULAS. We hike for about 6-8 hours to Plaza de Mulas base camp
(14,300 ft) crossing “Playa Ancha” and then climbing “Cuesta Brava”. After arriving to base camp, we just get confortable and relax after a long hike.
REST DAY. We just relax and enjoy the surrounds. Plaza de Mulas is a quite interesting place to hang out, with its international atmosphere and little town feeling.
CERRO CUERNO. This day we attempt a challenging sumit at 18,000 ft. The route of choice will depend on conditions. 8 to 12 hours roundtrip.
REST DAY. We’ll have a full rest day and get ready for moving to high camps.
NIDO DE CONDORES. We hike for 5-6 hours to reach camp, which is at 17,500 ft.
COLERA CARRY. This day we hike in the morning higher to the next camp at 19, 200 ft to leave some supplies. Back to Nido to recover. 4 to 5 hours.
COLERA CAMP. We move camp to Colera, 3 to 4 hours.
REST DAY. We use this day to assess conditions, prepare gear and focus on the summit.
ACONCAGUA POLISH DIRECT. Early start to reach the base of the Glacier and then climb the steep snow and ice ramp of the Polish Direct. After summit (6962 ms) we get back to our tent at Colera Camp. 10 to 14 hours.
PLAZA DE MULAS. We’ll wake up late and hike down to base camp, where we’ll arrive for lunch. In the evening we’ll prepare the mule’s to go down.
MENDOZA. We’ll put on our hiking shoes again and go all the way down to the Park entrance and then to our hotel in Mendoza. In the night, we’ll have our last dinner together and celebrate our climb.
FLIGHT BACK HOME. Transfer to the airport. End of the program.