Only for hardcore experienced alpinists, we warm up climbing Cerro Solo, where we also review and refine climbing techniques; later we’ll move up to Laguna sucia, from where we attempt a classic ice and rock climb at Aguja de la S.
This is a real alpine climbing challenge in authentic Patagonian style
We start our trip in Calafate, your arrival point. The drive to Chalten will give you a first glimpse of the inmense dessertic step landscabe with its guanacos (a lama cousin), choiques (similar to ostrich) and condors. Once we arive to the little town of Chalten, we enjoy a good dinner in town and get ready for the next day.
Our first goal is Cerro Solo, which we aproach by tha Fitz Roy River. From camp we deal with a rocky loose trail with some scrambling sections to get to the glacier. Then we travel a steep glacier with huge crevases to get to the summit. The views from here are incredible, specially of the Cerro Torre range.
On our second objective, Aguja de L´S, we use a rock cave by Laguna Sucia as a starting point to get to the glacier. Passing the bergschrund is a real challenge, followed by steep alpine snow and ice to reach the rock. Once on the Austrian route, great crack climbing in perfect granite await for us, before getting to the notch and then to the summit.
Our last peak is Aguja Guilaumet we wake up early before getting to the start of our climb. Depending on our route, we´ll be able to climb alpine snow and ice up to 80 degrees on the Amy route or deal with 5.9 to 10.b rock grades on the Brenner or the Founrouge. All of this three options join at some point, where we have to climb easy terrain and a snowy ridge to get to the summit.
A great program that allows us to climb on peak on each of the three main valleys of the area.
- Skill level: Advanced. 20-25 kg packs. Alpine rock 5.9 to 10.b. Ice up to 60 degrees.
- Location: Los Glaciares N. P., Patagonia, Argentina
- Length: 15 days
- Climber/guide ratio: 1:1 / 2:1
- Capacity: 2
- Cost per person: 1:1 US$6300 2:1 US$4700
- Departure dates: on request from October to March.
“Climbing in Patagonia was the culmination of years of training, reading, and dreaming. When I met Juan on a porch in Chalten, I knew immediately I was in good hands. His preparation for our time together was a savvy compilation of weather conditions, route knowledge, and ambition, evolving daily to provide the ultimate Patagonian experience. Juan never failed to produce a smile, even in the tough conditions and always knew just how to encourage me, that I could climb my best. During down time in camp he showed me a wealth of new knowledge that has served me well since our trip. Not only that, his in-tent stir-fry is the best I’ve ever had! I wouldn’t hesitate to call on the team at Andes Mountain Guides in the future. These guys all know their craft and the areas they guide extremely well, having formed deep relationships with locals over the years. With seeming ease, they put everything together to make my dream come true.”
James Sellers, Portland OR
El Calafate. We meet at the airport before driving through the step for for 3 hours to Chalten. After arriving we check in at our Hotel and go out for a welcome dinner, good chance to know each other and make a good introduction of the trip. D.
El Chalten Climbing. This day we focus on reviewing climbing techniques at on of the crags around town. A proper team preparation, and getting everybody in the same page, will be key for our safety and climbing success. B, LB, D.
Cerro Solo Camp. We start hiking towards Laguna Torre until we reach the Fitz Roy rive, which we cross by a tyrolean zip line. After another hour we get close to our basecamp by the creek. HEre we set our tents and get ready for our first objective. 3 to 5 hours. B, LB, D.
Cerro Solo. On our first Summit day we first deal with several feet of mixed scree and snow terrain in order to get to the glacier. From here we rope up and climb until the bottleneck, a steeper section which gives access to the top glacier. A short section of 45 degrees takes us to the ridge, then one last push to the summit. The views from here are stunning: Cerro Torre, Cordon Adela, the south face of Fitz Roy, and the Continental Ice Cap. Back to Camp. 8 to 10 hours roundtrip B, LB, D.
Back to Chalten. After breakfast we’ll start hiking back to town, where hot showers, a comfy bed and a our first celebration dinner will be waiting for us. 4 hours. B, LB, D.
El Chalten. Rest day. Hotel night. B.
Laguna Sucia camp. This day we wake up early and hike all the way to our camp at a big cave above Laguna Sucia. We walk following the trail to Poincenot camp and later we’ll start negotiating a talus terrain wbefore getting to set our camp. 5 to 6 hours. B, LB, D.
Aguja de L´S. On summit day we start scrambling up until reaching the glacier where we’ll rope up. From here we move up until reaching the bergschrund, where the technical difficulties begin. Then we climb aa first section of 45 degrees snow before several pitches of great granite to the summit. . After rappelling, we’ll get back to the cave. B, LB, D.
El Chalten. In the morning we get back to town and use the rest of the day to recover and plan the next goal. Hotel night. 4 to 5 hours.
El Chalten. Rest day. Hotel night.
Piedra Negra Camp. We use the morning to rest and organize last details. Just after brunch we drive to the Rio Eléctrico bridge where we’ll start hiking towards Piedra del Fraile first, and then though the steeper trail in the area, to reach our bivy site. Good dinner, early bed and focus on the next peak. 4 to 5 hours. B, LB, D
Aguja Guillaumet. Depending on personal preferences and conditions, we’ll chose between two classics: a mostly rock climbing route on the northwest face or a classic ice and snow couloir on the Amy Route. Both routes are fantastic, and we’ll be the perfect finale for this alpine trip. 10 to 12 hours. B, LB, D.
El Chalten. We break camp and get back to Chalten for our last night together, which we celebrate with a traditional “asado” at the gaucho´s place. B, LB, D.
El Calafate. Drive back to the airport for your flight home. B